VW T6 camper conversion: full build guide

The Problem

A 2019 VW T6 LWB panel van needed a full campervan conversion from scratch, covering insulation, windows, flooring, furniture, and electrics. The van also had an AC fault where the blower fan only worked on certain speeds, which remained unresolved at the start of the build.

Solution

1. Remove the bulkhead, any previous shelving, and the ply lining, keeping the factory grey panels and old ply pieces to use as templates later.

   • A grinder with a slitting disc is needed to cut the bulkhead frame lip flush, as a jigsaw alone will not do this job.
   • Note the fixing specifications for the factory bulkhead before removal: the VW T6 bulkhead is retained by bolts into captive nuts/threaded mounts on the body. Record the bolt sizes and positions as you remove them (verify the exact bolt torque with a VW dealer or workshop manual before reusing any mounting points), and retain all original fasteners in case you wish to refit or sell the bulkhead.

2. Drill the corners of the window cut-out first, then cut along the template using a jigsaw with metal-specific blades and clean all metal swarf thoroughly before continuing.

3. Apply primer around the hole, then apply a polyurethane window bonding adhesive (a dedicated automotive glass-bonding sealant such as those in the Sikaflex window-bonding range — verify the exact product and that it is rated for automotive glass bonding before use) generously before offering the window up, erring on the side of too much sealant, especially on the tailgate where the bonding surface is smaller. Tape the window in place while the sealant cures.

   • The first two side windows failed and needed professional re-bonding at around £100 each, so use a genuine automotive-grade PU window bonding adhesive (not a general-purpose sealant) and take extra care with sealant coverage and positioning on the first attempt.

4. Fit the tailgate window using U-trim knocked in unbonded and held by friction alone, which also makes it easy to remove for carpet tucking.

5. Apply sound deadening sheet to around 30% of each large flat panel, then layer 10mm thermoacoustic liner over the top, followed by 30mm or 50mm ecofleece wool depending on available cavity depth.

6. Use the old floor as a template to cut new 12mm plywood, repainting any bare metal with Hammerite and resealing with Sikaflex before laying the new subfloor.

7. Bond floor packers to the metal floor with Sikaflex, then apply Dodo Deadn Duo between them for combined sound deadening and insulation. Drill the plywood and furniture fixings down through into the packers.

   • Seal the plywood edges with a PVA mix for moisture protection.
   • Fixing specification: use self-tapping or wood screws long enough to pass through the 12mm ply and bite securely into the timber floor packers without protruding into the metal floor pan below. Drill pilot holes to avoid splitting the packers, and do not screw into the metal floor itself. Hand-tighten until snug — these are timber screw fixings and are not torque-spec'd; avoid over-driving, which strips the ply (verify any anchor points near fuel/brake lines with a VW workshop manual before drilling).

8. Lay heavy-duty wood-effect vinyl on top of the subfloor using the old flooring as a cutting template, then fit a deeper side step to sit flush with the new thicker floor level.

9. Cut and carpet new wall and door panels, then secure them to the van using tan-coloured push-fit trim clips.

   • Buy spare clips as they snap easily.

10. Design the bed and seat frame in SketchUp before cutting any timber, then build a u-shaped timber frame and screw it down through the vinyl into the 12mm subfloor, expecting to adjust measurements on the day.

    • Fixing specification: fix the frame down into the 12mm ply subfloor using wood screws of at least 30–40mm length so they fully engage the ply (and ideally the timber packers beneath). Pilot-drill to prevent splitting and tighten until the frame is firmly seated without crushing the timber — these are timber fixings and are not given a torque value. For load-bearing bed/seat frames that may be used as travel seats, any seat-belt or crash-tested mounting must be installed to the manufacturer's/converter's specification (verify with a qualified converter — this is safety-critical).

11. Cover the frame top with 9mm plywood hinged for underbed storage access, cut ventilation holes in the lid, and scribe the side panels to the van's curved walls. Fit a lip at the top of each side panel to retain the foam cushions.

    • 10cm luxury-firm foam finished by an upholsterer with stockinette and dacron gives a professional result — budget around £630 for custom-shaped pieces.

12. Oil a matching piece of wood for the table and install folding braces on each side so it can be lowered to fill the bed gap. Use a removable or height-adjustable leg, noting that a fixed removable leg works but can be wobbly.

13. Build kitchen cabinets in two separable sections for easier fitting and removal, priming and painting all timber before installation. Match the worktop wood to the table, fit drawer runners with adequate clearance, and position the power station cabinet so it stays accessible by tilting the front seat forward.

14. This build uses a Bluetti Elite 300 power station as the main electrical source, connecting it via the XT90 12V/30A output using a ready-made eBike adaptor cable with the ends stripped and re-crimped with correctly sized o-ring (ring) terminals for the fuse box.

    • Adapt this step to your own setup: the cable prep above is specific to the Bluetti Elite 300's XT90 30A output. If you use a different power station, identify its 12V output connector and its rated current, and source the matching adaptor lead. If you use a conventional leisure battery and inverter/12V distribution setup instead, run appropriately sized cable from the battery to a fused distribution box (fuse and cable cross-section sized to the load and run length), with a main fuse fitted close to the battery positive terminal. In all cases, match cable gauge and terminals to the actual current draw and fuse rating (verify against the manufacturer's specification for your equipment).
    • Secure the power station or battery with at least two straps to prevent movement while driving.

15. To fix the AC fault, replace the heater blower resistor pack, which is the classic cause of the blower fan working only on certain speeds on a VW Transporter and costs around £10. The correct part depends on whether your van has manual climate control or air conditioning/Climatic — order by your VIN or registration to get the matching resistor (verify part number before ordering with a VW dealer or trusted factor). Access is awkward and can take over an hour, so have a second person on hand to help.